Maison Schiaparelli
The Beginning: Elsa Schiaparelli’s Surrealist Vision
Elsa Schiaparelli launched her fashion house in 1927 with a bold, imaginative spirit that set her apart from the start. Her designs were eccentric, artistic, and completely unexpected. She is credited with creating the trompe l’œil sweater in 1927, which used knit patterns to create the 3D illusion of a scarf tied around the neck. Schiaparelli also popularized Shocking Pink, a vibrant and distinctive hue that became synonymous with the brand, inspired by the Tête de Bélier pink Cartier diamond. Living in Paris, she was a well-known rival to Coco Chanel. While Chanel leaned into minimalism, Schiaparelli embraced maximalist flair. Chanel once dismissed her as “that Italian artist who makes clothes.” Schiaparelli didn’t mind. In fact, she leaned in.
Key Moments: Surrealism in Fashion
In the 1930s, Schiaparelli began collaborating with artists like Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, bringing surrealist principles into haute couture. One of the most iconic results was the Lobster Dress in 1937, a simple white organza gown printed with a large lobster and painted accents by Dalí himself. The contrast between the elegant silhouette and the surreal lobster motif showcased Schiaparelli’s boundary-pushing creativity.
While the Lobster Dress wasn’t the sole turning point in her career, it remains a symbol of her legacy, blending fashion and art in a way that was groundbreaking for its time. Schiaparelli’s career was defined by her exploration of dream-like imagery and bold collaborations with artists, long before this now-iconic piece.
Her avant-garde approach to fashion focused on distorting traditional forms and exaggerating the human body. She used shoulder pads and padded hips to create dramatic silhouettes that defied natural proportions, adding a sense of theatricality and surrealism to her creations.
The Decline and Revival of Schiaparelli
Following World War II, Schiaparelli’s bold aesthetic fell out of favor as Christian Dior’s New Look (1947) dominated the fashion world with its softer, more feminine silhouettes. In 1954, Schiaparelli closed her fashion house, the same year Chanel made her comeback.
Elsa Schiaparelli passed away in 1973, and the brand remained inactive for decades. However, in 2012, the maison was revived, and in 2019, Daniel Roseberry was named Creative Director, bringing back its surrealist legacy with a modern twist, honoring her surrealist roots while expanding the brand’s reach. Under Roseberry, Schiaparelli continues to feature haute couture and ready-to-wear collections, drawing attention from celebrities like Kim Kardashian, Bella Hadid and Lady Gaga, who have worn the brand multiple times, helping to re-establish its presence in modern fashion.
Signature Elements of Schiaparelli
Surrealist Influence – Bold, artistic designs inspired by surrealism, such as fishnet bodices and melting watches.
Statement Jewelry – Oversized, eccentric pieces like sculptural gold necklaces and earrings.
Trompe-l'œil – Illusionary designs that create the appearance of another texture or material.
Exaggerated Shapes – Dramatic, unconventional silhouettes with voluminous or abstract forms.
Shocking Pink – The iconic, electric pink shade that became a signature of the brand.
