Chanel
The Beginning: A Rebel with a Needle
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was born in 1883 in Saumur, France. After her mother died, she was sent to a convent orphanage where she learned to sew. In her twenties, she started designing hats in Paris and soon caught the attention of high society. In 1910, she opened her first boutique on Rue Cambon, selling hats under the name “Chanel Modes.” By 1913, she was designing relaxed clothing using jersey, a fabric considered unconventional at the time. Her vision was all about freeing women from corsets and offering elegance with ease.
Revolutionizing Fashion
In the 1920s, Chanel redefined luxury with her minimalist aesthetic. She launched Chanel No. 5 in 1921, the first perfume to blend natural and synthetic ingredients. The same decade, she introduced the little black dress, which became a modern wardrobe essential. She popularized the tweed suit, costume jewelry, and quilted handbags, creating timeless codes that still define the brand. Her style was embraced by royalty and film stars alike.
Wartime Controversy and Comeback
Chanel closed her fashion house in 1939, citing the disruption of war as a reason. However, during the German occupation of Paris from 1940 to 1944, Chanel remained in the city and continued to live in her luxurious apartment at 31 Rue Cambon. Despite being out of the public eye, her life during the war has been the subject of significant controversy.
Chanel's personal connections during the war, including her relationship with a high-ranking German officer, Hans Gunther von Dincklage, sparked rumors of collaboration. Some have suggested that she used her influence and position to gain privileges under the German regime, though these claims remain disputed. There are also accounts of her attempts to regain control of her perfume business, which had been under the management of her business partners, the Wertheimer family, after the war. This was seen by many as a more practical business move than a purely political one, but it did add to the suspicion surrounding her actions during the occupation.
After the war, Chanel faced backlash due to these associations, leading to her temporary exile from Paris. She left for Switzerland in 1945, taking a break from the fashion world for over a decade. It wasn’t until 1954, at the age of 71, that she made her dramatic return, launching a new collection that reimagined her signature tweed suits and relaxed silhouettes.
The Lagerfeld Era
In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld took over as artistic director and infused Chanel with a bold, modern energy. He kept the core elements, tweed, pearls, and the double-C logo, but made them playful and ironic. His runway shows became legendary for their theatrical scale and pop culture flair and Lagerfeld helped Chanel become not just a luxury brand but a global cultural icon.
Virginie Viard: A New Direction
After Lagerfeld’s passing in 2019, Virginie Viard, his longtime right hand, became Chanel’s creative director. Her collections took a softer, more intimate approach, less spectacle, and more wearability. She continued to evolve Chanel’s signature codes with a touch of romance and practicality, and her work has been praised for its subtle elegance and respect for the house’s heritage. As of 2025, she remains at the helm of the brand.
Signature Elements of Chanel
Tweed Jackets: Chanel’s classic tweed jackets are instantly recognizable, often featuring structured silhouettes, luxurious textures, and subtle detailing.
Quilted Leather: From handbags to accessories, Chanel’s signature quilted leather, often paired with a gold or silver chain strap, stands out as a symbol of luxury.
The Double-C Logo: The interlocking double-C logo is synonymous with Chanel, appearing on bags, jewelry, and accessories.
Camellia Flower: Chanel’s love for the camellia flower is reflected in many of its designs, often seen in jewelry and embellishments.
Two-Tone Shoes: Chanel’s two-tone slingback shoes, typically in beige and black, are a distinct and iconic footwear design that blends elegance with modernity.
