Yves Saint Laurent
The Beginning: Early Success
Yves Saint Laurent was born in Algeria in 1936 and moved to Paris to pursue his fashion career. At just 17, his sketches impressed a Vogue magazine executive, leading to his hire at Christian Dior as an assistant. After Christian Dior's sudden death in 1957, Saint Laurent, at the age of 21, was named head of the House of Dior, marking the start of his influential career. He introduced key designs like the A-line silhouette, more sophisticated skirts, and in 1959, he shortened skirts dramatically. In 1960, he also introduced the beatnik look, with turtlenecks and black leather jackets.
Growth and Innovation: Creating a Legacy
After a breakdown in the French army in 1960, Saint Laurent left Dior and went on to found his own fashion house in 1962. His designs quickly gained prominence, and he became a revolutionary figure in Paris fashion. Yves Saint Laurent became known for making women's trousers fashionable for both city and country wear. His 1966 launch of Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, his ready-to-wear line, aimed to make fashion more accessible and democratize style. This was an important milestone in the brand's history, as it made high fashion more inclusive and paved the way for the future of ready-to-wear collections.
Cultural Influence
Saint Laurent was more than just a designer. He was a cultural icon who reshaped women's fashion and played a pivotal role in breaking down societal barriers. His work was deeply influenced by and contributed to the social movements of the 1960s and 1970s, challenging gender norms and redefining femininity. He gave women the freedom to embrace androgynous styles and wear pants, suits, and tuxedos (pieces traditionally reserved for men) thus giving them more power and agency in fashion.
Struggles and Transition: Decline and Revival
By the 1990s, the brand’s reputation began to suffer. In 1993, the house was sold to the pharmaceutical company Sanofi, and Hedi Slimane took charge of the Homme collection before leaving for Dior Homme. The company was later acquired by Kering in 1999, and Tom Ford became creative director of ready-to-wear. Yves Saint Laurent himself continued overseeing the haute couture division until his retirement in 2002 due to health issues, exhaustion, and a disillusionment with the fashion industry. This marked the closure of the haute couture division, although the ready-to-wear line continued.
A New Era: Rebranding and Modernization
In 2012, Hedi Slimane rejoined the house and rebranded the ready-to-wear collection, dropping "Yves" from the name, leading to some controversy. He also revived the haute couture line that year. Slimane’s influence brought a rock-and-roll edge to the brand, resonating with a new generation of fashion lovers. His vision and bold changes sparked debates but also revitalized the brand, making it more modern and relevant. After Slimane left in 2016, Anthony Vaccarello became the new creative director. Vaccarello’s vision has continued to maintain Yves Saint Laurent’s identity, combining the brand’s rich heritage with contemporary influences.
Signature Elements of Yves Saint Laurent
Le Smoking Tuxedo: Tailored tuxedo jackets for women, a symbol of chic sophistication.
Bold, Elegant Shoes: High heels with sleek, sculptural designs.
Sleek, Androgynous Silhouettes: Clean lines, often blending masculine and feminine styles.
Parisian Elegance: Refined, luxurious pieces like trench coats and tailored pants.
Art-Inspired Prints: Colorful, graphic designs like the iconic Mondrian dress.
Cultural Relevance: Yves Saint Laurent’s work was a reflection of the changing times, contributing to gender fluidity and challenging traditional gender roles in fashion.
